Fes Tanneries Tour: Leather Souvenirs and Photo Spots Guide

Fes Tanneries Tour: Complete Guide to Leather and Photography

The tanneries of Fes represent one of the world's oldest continuously operating leather-making centers, using methods virtually unchanged for centuries. The experience is visceral, aromatic, and visually striking—unforgettable for visitors. This comprehensive guide covers what to expect, sourcing quality leather souvenirs, optimal photography locations, and insider tips for maximizing the tannery experience.

Understanding Fes Tanneries

Historical Significance

Age: Operating for approximately 1,000 years

Methods: Traditional pit dyeing, vegetable tanning, ancient techniques

Cultural Importance: Heart of Fes medina economy; family-operated businesses

Preservation: Despite modern alternatives, traditional methods continue for quality leather

The Process (Simplified)

Raw Materials: Hides from local slaughterhouses

Soaking: Hides submerged in alkali solution to soften

Scraping: Hair and flesh removed by hand

Washing: Multiple water rinses

Dyeing: Natural and chemical dyes in large circular vats

Drying: Leather hung on roofs and walls to dry in sun

Finishing: Additional processing, cutting, sale to merchants

Visiting the Tanneries

Getting There

Location: Chouara and Seffarine areas of Fes medina

Navigation: Narrow medina streets; hiring guide recommended (€15-25 for 2-3 hours)

Access: Must enter through tannery merchant shops (many have rooftop viewing areas)

The Experience

Visual Impact: Colorful vats of dye in circular patterns create striking aesthetic

Aromatic Experience: Intense smell (pungent, challenging for some) comes from leather processing

Sensory Intensity: Sight, smell, sound, activity all intense simultaneously

Heat: Open-air rooftops can be warm, especially summer

Crowds: Tour groups congregate; morning earlier for fewer tourists

Rooftop Viewing

Vantage Point: Elevated vats visible from rooftop allows observation without direct involvement

Photography: Optimal from rooftops looking down at circular dye vats

Etiquette: Shops may charge €1-2 for rooftop access (sometimes waived with beverage purchase)

Time Duration: 30-60 minutes sufficient for viewing, photography, observation

Leather Souvenirs: Quality and Value

What's Available

Babouches: Slippers in leather (€15-40 quality depending); traditional footwear

Leather Belts: Simple to ornate (€10-30); good gifts

Journals/Notebooks: Leather-bound (€20-60); practical souvenirs

Handbags: Wide range (€30-150+); quality highly variable

Leather Jackets: Full garments (€80-200+); fitting and quality vary

Phone Cases/Small Leather Goods: €5-25; practical souvenirs

Moroccan Poufs: Leather furniture (€30-80); larger purchases

Leather Quality Assessment

Color: Rich, uniform coloring indicates quality tanning

Texture: Smooth, supple feel (run hand over) indicates good leather

Smell: Pungent but not overwhelming; extremely strong smell suggests low quality or recent processing

Stitching: Even, tight stitching indicates quality craftsmanship

Lining: Good-quality leather has quality lining (check inside bags)

Weight: Quality leather feels substantial, not flimsy

Price Negotiation

Initial Ask: Merchants quote high; negotiation expected

Reasonable Reduction: Expect 20-40% reduction from initial asking price

Multiple Items: Buying several items increases negotiation leverage

Walking Away: Willingness to leave often prompts discounts

Fair Price: Know approximate fair value beforehand (shopping multiple shops provides calibration)

Merchant Selection

Established Shops: Longer-operating shops tend toward better quality

Recommendation: Ask your guide for reputable merchants

Certification: Some shops display quality certifications (though not always reliable)

Return Option: Better shops allow exchanges if leather defects appear

Photography Spots and Etiquette

Best Photo Locations

Vats from Above: Rooftop views looking down at colorful vats—most photographed scene

Drying Walls: Leather hung on walls and roofs creating striking visual patterns

Artisans at Work: Craftspeople actively processing leather (ask permission before photographing)

Medina Surrounding Tanneries: Narrow streets, archways, local life

Gate Entrances: Architectural details of tannery gates

Photography Tips

Lighting: Morning light (08:00-10:00) provides best color and definition

Angles: Shoot from multiple heights and angles for variety

Respect: Always ask permission before photographing people

Crowds: Arrive early to minimize background tourists in shots

Protection: Protect camera from leather dust and spray

Photography Etiquette

Ask First: Always request permission from artisans and shop owners

Respect Refusals: Gracefully accept if photographing declined

No Disrespect: Avoid photographing in ways suggesting judgment about conditions

Compensation: Offering small tip (€1-2) appreciated for photography cooperation

Information Practicalities

Timing

Duration: 1-2 hours sufficient for tannery viewing and souvenir shopping

Best Time: Early morning (09:00-11:00) before crowds and heat peak

Combine With: Can pair with medina tour for comprehensive experience

Frequency: Tanneries open daily, often including Friday

Physical Considerations

Smell: The aroma is intense and unavoidable; consider ginger or mint to smell beforehand to offset reaction

Heat: Rooftops can be hot; sun protection essential

Stairs: Multiple stairs to reach rooftop viewing areas; moderate fitness required

Standing: Plan for significant standing and walking

Practical Tips

Comfortable Footwear: Medina navigation requires comfortable shoes

Cash: Bring sufficient cash; many merchants don't accept cards

Mint Spray: Optional but appreciated—some shops provide mint sprigs to counteract smell

Camera Protection: Leather dust can affect camera lenses; protect equipment

Modest Dress: Respect local customs with modest clothing

Cost Estimates

Tannery Rooftop Access: Free-€3

Guided Tour (half-day): €20-40

Souvenir Shopping: €0-300+ (very variable)

Refreshments: €2-5 for tea/juice

Tips: €5-10

Total: €30-60 for experience; add souvenir budget

FAQ

Is the tannery smell unbearable?

Intense, yes. Unbearable depends on individual sensitivity. Mint sprigs, breathing through mouth, or previous acclimation help.

Can I do tanneries without guide?

Yes, but guides provide context and merchant connections for better prices/quality.

Is it ethical to tour tanneries?

Yes—traditional methods provide employment, preserve cultural practices, produce quality leather. Your payment supports artisans.

How long should I spend?

1-2 hours comfortable; longer if shopping seriously.

Best leather items to buy?

Babouches, belts, journals most practical; quality consistent and value good.

Can I watch artisans actually working?

Yes, though work happens in basement vats often. Rooftop observation provides best visible access.

What's fair price for babouches?

€20-30 for quality. Starting ask often €40-60; negotiate down.

Is it safe for women?

Generally yes. Dress modestly, move confidently, avoid evening visits alone.

Can I take photos of artisans?

Only with explicit permission. Most appreciate small tip for cooperation.

Do tanneries take cards?

Rarely. Bring cash; ATMs available outside medina.