Fes Blue Gate: Pottery and Ceramics Shopping Guide
Fes Blue Gate: Pottery and Ceramics Shopping Guide - Complete Reference
The Fes medina, particularly around the iconic Bab Boujloud (Blue Gate), is Morocco's pottery capital. Centuries-old craft traditions continue in hidden workshops where artisans hand-throw, paint, and fire ceramics. This guide covers pottery types, workshops, shopping strategies, pricing, and the craft heritage of Fes ceramics.
Bab Boujloud (Blue Gate) Overview
Location
Gate Name: Bab Boujloud (formally), Bab Boujloud (English: "Blue Gate") Color: Iconic cobalt blue exterior (Jewish side); green Islamic side Medina Entry: Northern entrance into Fes medina Surroundings: Pottery shops, restaurants, tourist focal point
Why Pottery Central Here
Historical: Medieval quarter housed potters (organized guild system) Clay Availability: Clay quarries nearby (Sefrou region) Water: River runs through medina (essential pottery craft) Tradition: Generations same families pottery; apprenticeship-based
Pottery Types and Pricing
Hand-Thrown Plates (Most Common)
Design: Hand-painted, geometric or floral patterns Size: 25-40cm diameter typical Colors: Blue, green, white, traditional palette Price Range:
- Small (20cm): €10-20
- Medium (30cm): €20-40
- Large (40cm): €40-80
Quality Variance: Tourist-grade cheaper; fine pieces expensive Durability: Usually functional (dishwasher often okay, though handwash recommended)
Tajine Pots (Functional, Decorative)
Purpose: Both cooking vessel and display piece Size: 30-50cm diameter Decorative: Painted lid, colorful knobs Price Range: €25-80 depending size/quality Functionality: Can cook in (traditional); many display only Origin: Practical cookware originally; now tourism/decoration focus
Top Quality: €60-120 (fine workshops) Tourist Grade: €20-40 (mass-produced)
Bowls and Serving Dishes
Sizes: Small (dessert) to large (serving) Painted: Geometric designs typical Price Range: €8-50 depending size/quality Practicality: Functional; beautiful tablescape
Vases and Decorative Vessels
Styles: Traditional bulbous shapes, modern interpretations Size: 20-60cm height Price Range: €20-100+ Decorative: Often non-functional (beautiful display pieces)
Tile and Mosaic Pieces
Format: Individual tiles (20x20cm typical) or arranged mosaics Design: Zellige patterns (geometric), painted tiles Price: €5-20 per tile; mosaics €50-300 Challenge: Fragile; shipping difficult
Top Pottery Workshops and Shops
Traditional Workshops (Best Authenticity)
Sefroui Pottery Workshop:
- Location: Medina side streets near Blue Gate
- Owner: Sefroui family (4+ generations)
- Specialty: Hand-thrown, painted plates and tajines
- Prices: Mid-range (€20-60)
- Experience: Watch artisans work; buy directly (eliminates middleman)
- Language: Limited English; French okay
Moroccan Crafts Cooperative:
- Location: South medina (downhill Blue Gate)
- Specialty: Women artisans cooperative
- Products: Handmade ceramics, emphasis fair wages
- Prices: Fair-trade pricing (slightly higher)
- Social Impact: Supports women's economic independence
Fez Pottery Studio:
- Location: Northeast medina
- Owner: Modern artisan with traditional training
- Specialty: Contemporary designs with traditional techniques
- Prices: €30-150 (higher quality/modern aesthetic)
- Experience: Studio visits, custom orders possible
Retail Shops (Convenience, Higher Prices)
Bab Boujloud Pottery Shop (multiple):
- Location: Near Blue Gate (obvious location)
- Inventory: Wide selection, organized
- Prices: Tourist-inflated (30-50% markup)
- Advantage: Convenient; curated selection
- Disadvantage: Less authentic; middleman profit
Medina Souks (scattered workshops/shops):
- Experience: Explore labyrinthine streets, discover workshops
- Pros: Authentic, possible negotiation, direct purchase
- Cons: Time-consuming, potentially disorienting
Shopping Strategy and Negotiation
Finding Workshops
Strategy: Hire local guide (€20-30/day) to navigate medina OR: Ask hotel/riad owner (usually have local connections) OR: Explore medina yourself (wandering yields discoveries)
Best: Combination guide (2-3 hours) then independent exploration
Quality Assessment
Check Craftsmanship:
- Paint consistency (thin or thick?)
- Geometric patterns (clean lines or sloppy?)
- Glaze evenness (smooth or uneven?)
- Durability (listen to tap; clear ring = good firing)
Red Flags:
- Mass-produced appearance (identical pieces, perfect symmetry)
- Thick paint covering (hides poor craftsmanship)
- Cheap glaze (dull, chalky)
- Poor paint adherence (flakes easily)
Price Negotiation
Starting Price: Often 50-100% inflated (tourist expectation) Negotiation Strategy:
- Offer 40-60% asking price
- Go back-and-forth incrementally (5-10% decrements)
- Walk away (often best tactic; prices drop immediately)
- Bulk discounts (buy 5+ items; ask for reduction)
Direct Workshop: Less negotiation expected (artisans pride work); fair price usually quoted
Souks Shops: Negotiation more expected; expect 20-40% reduction possible
Bulk Purchase Discounts
5-10 items: 10-15% discount typical 20+ items: 20-30% discount possible Ask explicitly: "If I buy 10 items, best price?"
Shipping and Export
Feasibility
Risk: Pottery fragile; breakage possible shipping Options:
- Shipping service from shop (often available; expensive)
- Hand-carry (safest; luggage weight consideration)
- Bubble wrap heavily (DIY if not using service)
Hand-Carry Strategy
Luggage Space: Leave room for pottery Weight: Heavy (pottery dense); luggage limit consideration Packing: Bubble wrap, towel wrapping, cushioned placement Transport: Hand luggage possible (if not checked; fragility)
Shipping Costs (If Using Service)
International Shipping (to US/Europe):
- €50-150 depending size/insurance
- 3-4 weeks delivery typical
- Risk (breakage during shipping)
Recommendation: Hand-carry if possible; limit to 2-3 pieces if luggage space allows
Shopping Budget
| Item | Price |
|---|---|
| Small plate (20cm) | €10-20 |
| Medium plate (30cm) | €20-40 |
| Tajine pot | €30-60 |
| Bowl | €8-25 |
| Decorative vase | €25-100 |
| Tile (single) | €5-15 |
Typical Shopper Budget: €50-150 (3-5 items, modest pieces) Serious Collector: €300-1000+ (multiple fine pieces, shipping)
Cultural Background: Fes Ceramics
Historical Significance
Medieval Tradition: Pottery guild organized since 14th century Techniques: Hand-thrown wheels (traditional), hand-painted designs Designs: Geometric patterns reflecting Islamic art (figural images taboo) Role: Essential household items (pre-industrial); now artisanal craft
Craft Apprenticeship
Training: 3-7 years typical (hands-on learning) Lineage: Often father-to-son tradition (family knowledge) Mastery: Few true masters remaining (young generation less interested) Threat: Modernization, cheap imports challenge traditional craft survival
Economic Reality
Income: Artisans modest earnings (labor-intensive) Competition: Mass-produced ceramics cheaper Tourism: Increasing tourists provide income (stable, but price pressure) Concern: Young people leaving craft; tradition at risk
Ethical Shopping
Supporting Artisans
Direct Purchase: Buy from workshop/artisan directly (eliminate middleman) Fair Price: Pay reasonable amount (cheap pottery often exploitative) Respect: Appreciate craft, ask permission photographs, honor tradition
Cooperatives: Support women artisans groups (fair wages, independence)
FAQ
Which pieces are functional vs display?
All can be display. Most plates/bowls functional (safe food). Tajines decorative often (many non-food-grade).
Can I bring pottery on airplane?
Hand luggage: Difficult (fragility, security). Checked luggage: Yes (wrap well, fragile sticker).
Is negotiating expected?
Yes in souks (part of tradition). Direct artisans: Less expected (set fair prices).
How do I know if authentic?
Hand-thrown shows imperfections (slight asymmetry, finger marks). Perfect symmetry = mass-produced.
Should I buy at Blue Gate or explore medina?
Both. Blue Gate convenient but pricey. Medina exploration finds genuine workshops, better prices (but time-intensive).
What if piece breaks during trip?
Risk accepted when buying fragile items. Pack carefully; check insurance (travel insurance sometimes covers).
Are tiles durable?
Yes, if properly fired. Historical Moroccan tiles centuries old. Modern tourist tiles: Check quality.
Can I commission custom pottery?
Possible through workshops. Lead time (2-4 weeks typical). Requires communication (language challenge).
How much should I pay fairly?
Workshop: Quote fair price (€30+ for quality plate). Negotiation: 30-40% reduction reasonable. Anything cheaper = questionable quality.
Do artisans accept credit cards?
Rarely. Cash (Dirhams) only typical. ATMs available throughout medina.
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